Zojoji Temple, c. 1910
“The snow must have fallen nearly all the night for it lay deep this morning. Soon after 10, it became bright and clear, and I set off to see the temples in Shiba Park. Very few people were about, and in the park just a stray poet or two and a photographer.
“I climbed one of the hills in it and before me lay the sea beneath the snow clad trees and temple roofs. I turned, and scarlet through the festoons of gleaming white glowed the fretwork of a pagoda. Up and down little hills I wandered, the great trees standing free as in a forest, and the ground, as in a forest, trellised with big roots. The snow hid the low bamboos and gave the whole hilly landscape such a look that one needed no imagination to fancy oneself in a distant mountain forest, till the curved roof and crimson sides of a temple showed between the trees.
“In absolute solitude I walked on untrodden snow with no sight or sound of man – round me the musical clouds of snow that fell as the wind swayed the boughs of the tall cryptomerias above my head.
“And this is the heart of a capital city, Tokio, queen of cities.”
– A Journal from Japan: A Daily Record of Life as Seen by a Scientist, by Marie Carmichael Stopes, 1910