“The first stage of the story begins in 1908 with chemist Ikeda Kikunae’s isolation of the ingredient in sea kelp that gave flavor to konbu dashi, the standard Japanese broth. Trained in Germany, the center of organic chemistry at the time, Ikeda shared with his German colleagues a desire to develop a cheap and mass-manufactured source of nutrition.
“… The product that emerged from Ikeda’s laboratory, monosodium glutamate, was quickly patented in Japan, the United States, England, and France. In domestic announcements of his invention, Ikeda proposed calling its distinctive taste umami – a term derived from the colloquial masculine word in Japanese meaning ‘tasty’.
“Ikeda brought the powdered substance to iodine manufacturer Suzuki Saburo, whose Suzuki Chemical Company began marketing it in 1909 under the brand name Aji-no-moto, meaning ‘essence of taste’.
“… At fifty sen for the ‘home size’ bottle in 1912 (when fifty sen would have bought close to ten pounds of flour), it was not cheap. Women in whom frugality had been inculcated as the highest virtue had to be convinced that the unfamiliar powder was a necessary addition to their kitchens. Ajinomoto targeted them with several devices to achieve this goal.
“The company logo depicted a woman sporting a white apron and a Western-influenced sokuhatsu hairstyle, both marks of the modern bourgeois housewife. To appeal aesthetically to bourgeois women, the product was sold in slender glass bottles that looked like they might hold perfume. Most important, Ajinomoto marketers appealed to the Japanese housewife’s newfound sense of herself as a culinary professional and of her kitchen as a laboratory.”
– A Short History of MSG: Good Science, Bad Science, and Taste Cultures, by Jordan Sands, Gastronomica, Fall 2005